OYSTER OF THE MONTH: SWEET WAVES
Here is another great oyster from the famous salt marshes in Barnstable Harbor, Cape Cod, Massachusetts. The harbor has one of the most significant tidal flows south of the Bay of Fundy with 12 to 15-foot tides. These nutrient rich flows, coupled with such a diverse growing environment, help create very unique flavor profiles based on proximity to an estuary, presence of grasses and marsh vegetation and depth of the water to name a few. The Waves are rack and bag grown where the racks are suspended off the bottom in a rip current area. The mid-water grow out accomplishes two things; first, the oysters are grit and mud free and second, the strong current naturally tumbles the bags inside the rack continuously, producing a signature deep cup oyster that is very impressive. At our tasting, these 3” oysters were all about the cup size filled with nice full meats. The slurp started with a tart Cape Cod blast that smoothly transitioned into a subtle sweetness with hints of melon. The waves had a nice clean almost ocean like finish. I enjoyed these Sweet Waves very much and a very fitting name.
OYSTER OF THE WEEK: HURRICANE HARBOR:
These oysters hail from Northumberland Strait in P.E.I. Canada. Around the hook in Wolfe Inlet, located on the sheltered side of the island. The seeds are strewn across the red clay bottom and allowed to mature for three years. When the Hurricane’s reach 3” in length, the bay men use rakes and tongs to harvest the oysters. The shells are a dark green tear drop shape and were very easily shucked. At our tasting, the cups were medium and the meats were translucent with an accented black mantle. The slurp started with a moderate brine followed by a sweetness that reminded me of the infamous Belon and the finish expressed some tannic complexity with hints of minerality. Just like the Belons, a few drops of fresh lemon will produce a carnal potpourri of flavors on your palate. Let’s pair these with a “2015 Riesling” from the Winery at Springhill (Geneva, OH), a semi-sweet white with noses of peach, apricot and citrus that complement the harbors or a “Cougar Blonde Ale” Rhinegeist (Cincy, OH) a brilliant malt character, a balanced yet dry siren that’s fierce enough to raise your eyebrows yet tame enough to be called sessionable.
PEI ROPE MUSSELS:
Our mussels are between 1 ½ to 2” and extremely clean, void of grit and any beard. The meats have been full and in the late summer they are full of sweet flavor as glycogen levels rise.
THIS WEEKS FEATURE: ALASKAN COD
This week we are highlighting our Cod filets that originate from the frigid waters off the Aleutian Islands in the Bering Sea. The fleet, based out of Dutch Harbor, fish just outside using baited long lines to lure their catch. The cod are de-headed and eviscerated within an hour of being landed on deck. Immediately, the H&G fish are frozen, the whole process takes place in under three hours from swimming in the ocean. The fishery is MSC certified sustainable, and the only cod fishery today that is seeing growth because of their conservation methods. The filets are a beautiful white, firm and flakey meat that is very mild. Completely versatile from Broiling to baking and of course, deep fried. This is the perfect filet that has the name recognition, flavor and versatility to be on everyone’s menu!!
PF PERUVIAN GOLDEN CORVINA FILETS:
This week our buyers look to the southern coastline off Mira Flores in the temperate waters of Peru. Here the family fishermen leave the beach each morning to see what the ocean will provide. Two miles off the beach, rocks protrude to the surface from the underwater seamounts. Here the boats set their Simbras (long-lines) using anchovies for bait at varying depths to about 30 fathoms. The Golden Corvina is prized in Peru for their famous ceviche because of the mild flavor and firm flesh. The filets we have are 2 to 3 lbs. each and are super trimmed to give you an excellent yield.